Who using the raid controller with battery module, sooner or later required to face the need to replace this battery. I have a RAID-the Adaptec 5405 with battery worked for about four years, and then the utility began to show that the battery needs to be replaced. All anything, but go shopping, I suddenly discovered that this is the unit costs about $140! But judging by the size of the batteries and the words I assumed it would be easy to solder to the battery of a mobile phone worth about $3.
Firstly to make sure that the problem is really in the battery, not to say the controller board battery module I have it sealed-off from the board and poked a voltmeter in all four legs, trying to find a way out food, because there was only signed by one of the four sign (+). In all cases there was no tension.
Himself charge controller, which is usually mounted on the battery is on a large flexible film side. This film was a kind of wrapped around the Li-Ion cell, I think that this was done for better temperature control. There have already signed all the sanity – perfectly clear conclusions “B-“ and “B +” to go directly to the battery, and the “P -“, “P +”, with which the output voltage has obviously goes to the board itself. We tear off the contacts from the battery, and unfold the film.
To replace the battery, I bought a samsung 1200mAh 3.7V. She turned out to mean a bit more of my and I thought it was not very good, but it was not very important, because it could stick whatever. Then of course it took to get it open and the battery itself, throwing regular charge controller, which usually there is stuck on in the form of a thin flat scarves.
It turned out that if you remove the battery, then its dimensions it becomes completely identical to that of standing inside the controller! That’s why I brought previous photo batteries purchased – it is 100% fit. Small problem consists in the fact that at the standard battery negative and the positive terminal attached to the body by two different parties, and a mobile battery on the one hand they are close (to them and hanging handkerchief charge controller).
The solution was simple – a flexible film tracing the path from the contact B + see that it is directly connected to the terminal P +, and there is already a mobile terminal of the battery at a stretch but it gets! Solder terminals wrap. Voltmeter to measure the voltage at the P- and P +, make sure it’s there (I had a 3.95V). Solder the battery itself back on the module with four contacts.
We put, turn. Glad we are seeing as the green LED next to the battery.
Finally make sure the utility Adaptec storage manager shows that everything is normal and the battery is charged.
9 thoughts on “Replacing the battery in the battery module controller ADAPTEC 5405 (abm-800)”
So you removed the charging controller of the Samsung battery, correct? And did you then connect the Samsung battery to the Adaptec charge controller?
Hello, i read your post. I find this relay good. I must also replace the akku from my Adaptec 5805.
One question: can i use also this Akku?
When i read the post right: i must connect only B+ and B- with the Akku?
Yes, that’s right
Hi. This article is absolutely great! Thanks very much for taking the time to write it up. I have an Adaptec 5405 with an ABM-800 that needs the battery replacing. I have disassembled the battery now.
I do have a concern, and i wonder if anyone has an idea on this. The flexible PCB wrapped around the battery is the safety circuitry – i guess thermal and short circuit protection. It would be much easier & safer if we could find a type of battery which we could attach to the 4 connectors with its own circuitry in place. I notice that the Adaptec ABM-800T has the same battery controller PCB, but the battery is connected by 4-wires and placed remotely. Mobile phone batteries seem to just have 3-wires (+ and – and a thermistor sensor). Any suggestions?
I can’t find the same Samsung battery as used here, and the newer ones look like they are wider and flatter (e.g. Samsung Galaxy Y S5360, EB454357VU). For the time being I’m going to try an “NP60” 3.7 1200mAh camera battery which looks more like the shape of the one used in this article and which I can buy cheaply. I will try using a bit of Kapton tape & Silicone Self-Fusing tape to wrap the circuit tightly to the new battery cell.
So.. in case anyone is looking to do the same, the NP-60 battery is just the right size and works absolutely fine! However, the replacement process is not for a novice. You need to be familiar with electronics and good at soldering.
I used Kapton and silicone tapes to seal it all back up. All good.
Next i would like to setup the MaxCache SSD but I see Adaptec made it such that only their “keyed” Intel SSDs work on the 5-series models other than those with a “Q” prefix. I dont see either the Q models or the MaxCache SSDs for sale so I’m wondering if there is some way to update the firmware or SSD to convince it to work with a standard Intel SSD (on 5405 or 5805 model).
What happened to the text of his article? Words seem scrambled:
“There have already signed all the sanity – perfectly clear conclusions “B-“ and “B +” to go directly to the battery, and the “P -“, “P +”, with which the output voltage has obviously goes to the board itself. Contact us to break away from the battery, and the film unfolds.”
Contact us to break away? “Signed all the sanity?”
sorry, that was an automatic translation, corrected to:
“We tear off the contacts from the battery, and unfold the film.”
It’s these batteries, Bought one to swap my old swollen battery out as it stopped charging